Mountaineering in Uganda
Rwenzori Park Mountaineering in Uganda is the Master of Mountaineering in Africa .
Henry Morton Stanley had never been here but the immense ice plateau we had crossed earlier to reach Margherita Peak bears his name. Stanley had claimed the mountains for himself refusing to listen to claims by his men of snow-covered peaks a few days earlier. Ironically he could not enjoy what was now laid before us. The steaming jungles, forest elephant and chimpanzees lay at our feet, giant heather forests and elusive Ruwenzori turacos were at ankle level (or so it seemed) and above them Lake Bujuku glistened in the early morning sunshine.
It really felt like the top of the world and Ptolemys ‘Mountains of the Moon’ are one of the most extraordinary and interesting mountains ranges I have ever climbeb. In 350AD the philosopher had drawn a chart showing the Mountains of the Moon and an immense inland sea as being the sources of the Nile; the source of Egypt’s life giving water. The accuracy of his map is nothing short of totally remarkable as the Rwenzori Mountains are indeed the highest source of the mighty Nile. The storms that regularly engulf Africa’s highest mountain range dump huge volumes of water and every drop of that water (regardless of where it lands on the range) flows into the watershed of the Nile and some of it finds its way to quench the insatiable thirst of the deserts in Northern Sudan and Egypt.
Rwenzori Park Mountaineering begins from the park headquarters 5,400ft (1,646m) walking past typical “mud and wattle” Bakonzo homes and gradually moving upward through elephant grass and garden plots. It takes approximately 40minutes to reach the park boundary. The trail then follows the Mubuku River crossing recent landslide areas and involves climbing over rocks and a bluff, before reaching the Mahoma River in about two and half-hours. After crossing the river there will be a steep climb through open bracken fern slopes and Podorcarpus Forest up to Nyabitaba Hut 8,700ft (2652m).The total time for an average hiker from Nyakalengija to Nyabitaba is about 5 hours and total elevation gained is 4,000ft (1,200m). During this part of the trip, you may be able to hear chimpanzees and sometimes you may have a glimpse of the black and white colobus and blue monkeys behind the hut or the brilliantly coloured Rwenzori Turaco bird. After 5-6 hours mountaineering one has to rest for a second trip starting at Nyabitaba
Day Two
From Nyabitaba Hut the trail leads West ward for half a kilometer then drops steeply to Kurt Shaffer Bridge, crossing below the confluence of the Bujuku and the Mubuku rivers. By turning right to the bridge you begin to climb the central circuit anti-clockwise since the clockwise direction is much more difficult and risky. After the Kurt Shaffer Bridge, the muddy slippery trail climbs steadily up through bamboo forest. After one and half-hours you are face to face with slippery boulder hopping and if you are not strong and determined you may change your mind (but just kidding )mountaineers are ever prepared for the worst terrains.After 5hrs of traveling from Nyabitaba you reach the hut at Nyamuleju and its accompanying rock shelter which may be a good night stop over. This point also marks the start of giant lobelia and groundsel zone. This remarkable vegetation type is found no where in the world except high-altitude tropical mountains. The 1hour walk to John Matte Hut (11,200ft/3,414m) is through a challenging bog, full of extra ordinary plants and the slow pace can be a delightful chance to examine and photograph this unique environment.
Typical time to reach John Matte is 7 hours.The loss of altitude to Kurt Shafer Bridge means the total elevation to be gained on this day is about 3,000ft (915m). Hikers who feel they have reached their limits by this point should consider John Matte as a reasonable stopping point.
Day Three:
Leave John Matte to cross the Bujuku River and enter the lower Bigo bog, where your first experience of jumping from tussock to tussock on a grassy bog begins. The trail is muddy and follows the left (southern) edge of lower Bibo bog until eventually it reaches Bigo Hut and its rock shelter.
A steep section past the hut leads to upper Bigo bog. In the last half of this bog, a boardwalk has been constructed though some may think it is an ugly intrusion, it makes walking easier and prevents the hikers from further damaging the bog. There is a beautiful narrow stream at the upper end of this bog that can make a lovely stop over for lunch.
An hour and a half beyond the upper bog, and after climbing through drier ground and criss-crossing the river, you reach Lake Bujuku. The Southern end of the lake is in a majestic setting with Mount Baker to the south, Mount Stanley to the West and Mount Speke to the North.
The trail route along the lake’s northeastern shore crosses the worst mud on the trip. Beyond the north end of the lake is a rock shelter called cooking pot and a short distance further is Bujuku Hut 13,000ft (3962 m), favorably located for parties climbing Mount Speke which requires technical skills and special equipment.
However the shaded location and frequent mists can make Bujuku Hut quiet cold.Time to reach Bujuku from John Matte is typically 3-5 hours and the elevation gained is 1,800ft(560m) but the long stretches of bog and the mud along the lake make this another challenging day. But every step made ahead is always enjoyed by the mountaineer especially if one enjoys adventure.
Day Four
From Bujuku Hut leave directly to a newer trail which rises and falls twice before finally climbing steeply through magical moss draped Groundsel vegetation 14,345ft (4,372m) to Scott Elliot pass. At the steepest section is a short strong ladder after which a right hand branch will lead to Elena Hut 14,700ft (4,430m). This is a steep, rocky trail which when wet can be slippery but continuing straight and a few steps below the pass there is a sheltered spot good for a break.
Elena is the base camp for climbing 16,763ft (5,109m) to Margherita Peak in the Mount Stanley complex which requires an additional day or two and can only be attempted with an ice axe, mountain boots, crampons, ropes and prior arrangements with Rwenzori Mountaineering Service Guides.
The circuit trail continues to the left over Scot Elliot pass and enters an alpine zone of sparse low vegetation and stark rough boulders more familiar to high altitude climbers from northern altitudes.
As you leave the pass, you may enjoy the spectacular view of northward of Margherita peak, Elena and Savoia Glaciers, and Mount Baker 15,889ft (4,843m) towering above you to the east or left of the trail.
Having dropped a few hundred feet elevation from the pass, you cut below massive rock walls at the base of Mount Baker, here dramatic “impact craters” have been caused by large rocks falling from above and your guide may caution you against loud noises.(May be there are some spirits but anyway don’t believe in superstition.)
Rising and falling, the trail descends past Upper Lake Kitandara, then Lower Lake Kitandara and Kitandara Hut 13,200ft (4,023m). This lovely site is surrounded by towering peaks but the sun sets early and the nights can be cold. Time to reach Kitandara from Bujuku Hut usually takes 1,400ft (425m)
Day Five
An early start is advisable to avoid over heating on the steep but lovely hour-long climb from the Lake Kitandara which is 14,050ft (4,282m) to the Freshfield pass. Viewing westward on clear days leads into neighboring Democratic Republic of Congo (DRC) and north, Margherita, and its glaciers still dominate the horizon.
Freshfield is a long traverse through beautiful high alpine mossy glades and more mud until after half an hour, when the trail begins the circuit’s long two-day descent. Mist or rain can make tracing the trail difficult, and the first one-kilometer here can be very slippery.
Rock shelters at Bujongolo and Kabamba are optional overnight stop over but it is best to push on through the seemingly endless mud to newly constructed Guy Yeoman Hut 10,700ft (3,261m). Some hikers make the Kitandara-Guy Yeoman trip in 5 hours but any stops to enjoy the pass, bad weather on descent, and the slow conditions in the last two hours of deep mud can make this a much longer day.
Day Six
As you approach Kichunchu ,River the trail parallels and twice crosses the Mubuku river mostly in deep mud until the last few kilometers of good dry trail. This follows the ridge down Nyabitaba, which completes the circuit.
Typical hikers make Guy Yeoman to Nyabitaba in 5 hours. Should you decide to continue to Nyakalengija it is another two or three hours depending on the condition of your knees and your desire to reach a comfortable bed and bath.
Near Nyabitaba Hut is located the beautiful Lake Mahoma, which can be reached with a short walk of 40 minutes return through the bamboo forest. Late evening walking can be good for watching birds and you may sight the occasional blue tailed monkey and sharp eyes may catch a glimpse of the brilliant green but changeable Rhinoserous chameleon.The Whole journey was interesting though tiresome and i play that next time you plan to come to Uganda, don't miss this magnificent exercise of Mount rwenzori or call the mountains of the moon.
And on day seven we finished our journey and back home.
Related Pages
Other Ugandan Safari AttractionsBungee Jumping in Uganda at the source of River Nile Ssese Islands on Lake Victoria Mountaineering and Hiking in Uganda Historical and Cultural Tours Birding in Uganda Wildlife in Uganda Gorilla Tracking in Bwindi National Park White Water Rafting in Uganda
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